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我通常遵循我在大学里学到的过程，即拍照，制作情绪板，并从中发展出想法，但现在我已经进入了实践领域，我的设计过程取决于满足目标受众的需要。在巴基斯坦，常见的服装是Shalwar Kameez，所以大多数时候在设计时，我必须保持它作为主要的轮廓，而切割线和纺织品成为我设计发展的垫脚石。很多时候，我遇到了一个特殊的纺织品补丁或一个特殊的切割线，我得到了这个独特的形象，我会想如何使用它，然后我就直接开始设计绘图，而不遵循板或设计开发过程。

I usually follow the same process that I learned in my university that is taking picture, making mood boards, and developing ideas from it but now that I have entered the practical field my design process depends on to the need to cater my target audience. In Pakistan the common outfit is Shalwar Kameez so most of the time while designing  I have to keep to it as the main silhouette while the cut lines and the textiles become the steppingstone for my design developments. Many times I come across a special textile patch or a particular cutline and I get this distinctive image of how I want to use it then I get straight to the design drawing without following the boards or design development process. 

Palwasha Shah身着自己设计的服装

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对我来说，灵感来自于不同的原材料。一条不同的切割线或一块刺绣就可以帮助我开拓思路。但最能激发我的是文化。研究不同的文化，他们的刺绣，针法，染色技术，编织，色调，他们的历史和今天的服装是我最感兴趣的。我一直在思考如何将深厚的古代文化嵌入到现代时尚设计行业中。古代文化设计是如此的吸引我。

Inspiration for me comes from different resources. a different cut line or a patch of embroidery can help me develop ideas. But what inspires me the most is the culture. Studying different culture, their embroidery, stitches, dying techniques, weaving, color palate, their historical and present apparels interest me the most. I am always thinking of ideas to embed deep ancient culture into the modern fashion design industry. Ancient cultural design is so comfortable as well as appealing.

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Eclectic. Minimalistic. Comfortable.

In my designs its quite visible that I most of the time use these style. My designs consist of elements from different sources but in a minimal form following my design philosophy; “less is more” while keeping my customer’s comfort as top priority

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Fashion has always been about innovation. Fashion designers are always seeking a new level of innovation. With the advancement of AI and technology the fashion design industry is reshaping itself to accommodate the audience and to predict the upcoming fashion trends in a better and inventive way. Sustainability has always been the top trend and is still on the rise but with the global economic change due to Co-vid, the focus has reverted to more season less items for audience to make the most out of each purchase. Also integrating throwback style into the new production is a trend that is on the rise now.

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我的设计主要依靠悬垂和数字应用程序。对我来说，悬垂是一种快速、清晰的服装造型提炼方式，因为它可以帮助我清楚地看到衣服的试穿效果。我的工作主要是定制设计，所以悬垂有助于获得设计中切割线、纽扣、刺绣等的准确位置。此外，它也便于设计中风格和形状的确定。有时，我把我想在设计中使用的元素用Photoshop加以拼贴，以获得设计的效果。对我来说，这是一种很方便的方法，即灵活又直接。

I rely mostly on draping and digital app for my designing. For me draping is a fast, clear, and better way of extracting garments as it helps me in getting a clear view of the dress fittings. I work mostly on customized designs so draping helps in getting the correct position of the design, cut lines, buttons, embroidery etc. Also, it is easy to check style and shape. Sometimes I drape elements that I want to use in a design and cut- paste them using Photoshop to get design developments. For me it is a more convenient way of getting both flowy and straight designs. 

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我现在还是一位新手设计师，但我个人更喜欢那些舒适的、能带给你最佳体验的设计。我的感觉是，时尚不仅仅是奢侈品。说不准什么流行的东西穿在你身上最好看。我们应该有勇气打破规则，展示我们的独特性。即使一个人不穿高级时装或奢侈品牌，也可以打破限制，展示最好的自己。我的目标是生产服装，无论是正在流行的街头时尚，还是经典的60年代或70年代风格，只要它能让我的用户感到愉快，就是值得采用的风格。此外，我坚信少即是多，所以我的设计目标是用最少的设计元素来进行设计。

I am just a rookie designer, but I personally prefer designs that are comfortable and brings the best out of you. What I feel is that fashion is not just about luxury. It’s not necessary that whatever is in trend will look best on you. We should have the courage to break the rules and show our uniqueness. Even one is not wearing couture or a luxurious brand, one can still break the limit they set for you and show the best of yourself. My goal is to produce garments be it from the ongoing trend of street fashion or a throwback to classic 60s or 70s, as far as it can make my audience feel happy about themselves. Also, I am a strong believer of less is more, so my design goal is to produce design using least designing elements.

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我设计了许多类别，如男装、女装、高级时装和童装。我的小型论文中提到了我最受认可的作品，它的创作是基于我的生活经验。我把它称为 "从书籍到董事会"。它说明了我的生活经历了从文学到时装设计的最大变化。

I have designed many categories like Menswear, Pret, Haute couture and kids wear. The work that I got recognized for is my mini thesis which was based on my life experience. I called it “Books to Boards”. It illustrates the greatest change my life underwent from literature to Fashion design.

我想谈的另一个作品是一件从西藏文化中汲取灵感的作品。我把它命名为 "NGA-RGYAL（西藏的骄傲）"。在这个作品中，我使用了西藏的头饰作为我的基本元素。

I achieved these designs following my designphilosophy of “Less is more” by using one element to extract silhouettes. Mywork was distinguished for its design developments and textiles. It showed thatsometimes a single element and simple textile can not only change the designoutlook but also make your designs stand among the most.

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我可以在对别人来说无用的东西中找到价值。这使我与众不同。对我来说，一切都有这样或那样的用处。它所需要的只是一个不同的视角，和一点聚光灯来照亮它。由于我的这种品质，我在设计时不会浪费任何东西，这使我更加节俭。但这并不意味着我将在设计质量上做出妥协。只是我相信，我有足够的创造力，沙子也可以闪闪发光。

I can find values in things which are at times useless for others. this is the reason that makes me different. For me everything is useful in one way or the other. All it needs is a different perspective and a little spotlight to shine out. Due to this quality of me, I don’t waste anything while designing and that makes me thriftier. But that doesn’t mean that I will compromise on the design quality. It’s just that I believe that I am creative enough to make the sand sparkle.

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作为一个学生，我总是从著名的设计师那里获得灵感，我喜欢许多著名的设计师，包括许多国际和亚洲的设计师。Jean Paul Gaultier是一位著名的法国时装设计师。他不寻常的风格和街头服装系列，既是正式的，同时也是休闲的。他的设计是古怪的，他的灵感来自于完全不同的文化。我的大部分作品代表了Jean Paul的设计元素。

As a student I have always looked up to famous designers for inspiration and I like many famous designers which includes many international and Asian designers. Jean Paul Gaultier is a well-known French Fashion designer. His unusual style and collections on street wear are formal as well as gives the feeling of casual at the same time. His designs are eccentric, and his inspirations are from completely different cultures. Most of my work represents jean Paul’s design elements.

上面的作品的灵感来自于Jean Paul。在这个作品中，我从Jean Paul的作品中提取了不同的元素，并将它们融入到我的男装项目中进行设计。这个男装系列使用了非常规的元素来进行设计。

The above work of mine is inspired from Jean Paul. In this work I have extracted different elements from Jean Paul’s work and incorporated them to develop designs for my menswear project. This menswear collection shows use of unconventional elements to create these designs.

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在学习服装设计时，我遇到了真正启发我的中国服装设计师：来自中国的Shiatzy Chen和Philip Lim。不仅仅是他们的作品，还有他们对工作的投入和热爱，以及他们对打破陈旧观念的努力，都是非常了不起的。正是Shiatzy Chen的 "中西合璧"风格，激发了我在中国工作、学习刺绣技术的愿望。

While studying fashion designing, I came across Chinese fashion designers that really inspired me. The works of Shiatzy Chen from and Philip Lim from China. Not just there works but also their devotion and love for their work and their effort to break the stereotypical concepts is exceptional. Chen’s “East meets West” is what influenced me to work in China to learn embroidery techniques.

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我们这几年观察到，由于这场流行病，人们的生活方式、日常工作和思维都发生了很大的转变。在这场流行病之前，口罩从来没有被重视过，但现在它已经成为日常穿着中的一个重要组成部分。手套和头套也是如此。这些看似琐碎的东西已经成为服装的重要组成部分。

改变我设计思路的第二件大事是，由于边境限制进出口，服装设计的材料很难获取。因此，我不得不利用现有的资源，对其进行回收利用。

此外，由于这种流行病，我个人认为许多人已经开始把重点放在穿得舒适而不是穿得奢华上。在设计时，我试图设计出更舒适、更实惠的衣服。

We have all seen that due to this pandemic there has been a great shift in people’s lifestyle, routine and thinking just like before this pandemic mask were never given any importance before but now it has become a vital part in daily wear. Same is the case with gloves and headgears. So many trivial things have now become an important part of the garment. 

Second important thing that changed me design thinking is that due to this border restriction and less import and export the material were not available. So, I had to use the resources that were available for me and recycling them. 

Furthermore, due to this pandemic I personally think that many people have started putting more emphasis on wearing comfortable than wearing lavish. So, while designing I try to design clothes that are more comfortable and affordable to wear.

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我在生活中经历了很多挣扎，最近由于一些悲剧的发生，我的自信和自尊受到了非常大的打击。对我来说，向别人表达自己，已经变得非常困难。因此，我想利用我的领域作为一个平台，传达我的感受，并以某种方式找回我失去的自信。时尚能够表达一个人的信念。对我来说，这是一种表达我内心想法的途径，它给我带来了快乐，我想把它传达给其他人，让他们感受到同样的快乐。

I have been through a lot of struggles in my life and recently due to some tragedies, I had suffered a very hard blow on my confidence and esteem. It has become very hard for me to express myself to others. So, using my field as a platform I want to convey what I feel and somehow find that confidence which I have lost. Fashion is about communicating and expressing what one belief. For me it’s a mode of voicing my inner thoughts that gives me happiness which I want to convey to the others and make them feel the same. 

A：

最近，在中国学习和工作成为了我的梦想。我一直对中国文化很感兴趣。自然染色和刺绣的古老技术一直吸引着我。正如我所提到的，我对中国古代文化设计非常感兴趣，特别是古代的传统服装和使用不同元素的刺绣技术，特别是莲花、火烈鸟和许多其他中国传统装饰品。

我的哥哥毕业于清华大学，现在他在那里工作，他总是给我发中国新的时尚潮流的照片。他总是给我发一些抖音上的街头时尚视频，因为中国的街头时尚总是能给我设计带来灵感。

看到年轻一代在中国接受新的时尚潮流，让我萌生了研究时尚设计行业和技术的愿望。我还认为，中国一直鼓励年轻设计师展示自己的实力，无论他们属于哪个国家。在这个平台上，设计师可以通过努力工作和天赋建立自己的发展基础。

Recently studying and working in China is a dream for me. I have always been interested in Chinese culture. The ancient techniques of natural dyeing and embroidery have always attracted me. As I mentioned I am really intrigued by ancient Chinese culture design especially the ancient traditional garments and the embroidery techniques using different elements especially the lotus flower, the Flamingos and many more on Chinese traditional ornaments.

My brother who graduated from Tsinghua University and is now working there, is always sending me pictures of new fashion trends in China. He is always sending me videos of street fashion (街拍) from douyin (抖音) as Chinese street fashion has always given me inspiration for my designs. 

Seeing young generation adopting to new fashion trends in China made me want to study about fashion design industry and the techniques closely. I also think that China has always encouraged young designers to show their strength no matter which country they belong to. It is a platform where a designer can build their foundation with hard work and talent.

Aboveimage is a piece of loom woven fabric and natural dye printing. The secondimage shows hand woven fabric(right) using different threads that replicates myscreen-printed design(left).

资料来源 | Angela Zambrano

采访 | Giada 周思祎

排版 | 毕文立